Exploring Ancient Cities around Mandalay (Mingalabar Myanmar, Part Three)

There are million reasons why people could easily fall in love with Myanmar. Myanmar offers plentiful of historical religious experience that could drag anyone to an exotic nostalgia. Well preserved the way it is, some hundreds or even thousands year old tourism sites seem never change time after time.

Few months ago, when visiting Mandalay, I and my friend decided to go further south-west, where three ancient cities, Mingun, Inwa, and Amarapura, are located. We hired a pick-up truck, a public transportation, for about 40.000 Kyatt  to explore those city in the whole day.

It was really fun when riding on the pick-up truck. Though in Indonesia, we do have this kind of vehicle, but we rarely see this becoming a public transport. The roof was covered, so we had to sit a little bowing down. From the open window–not really a window though, since it’s just kinda spaces between the pillar–we enjoyed the scenic view on our way. Not only traditional wooden settlements and some locals passing by, tranquil brownish river with some floating boats, but the major interesting sights, the monks and monasteries were also giving us tenderness and sticking our eyes to keep starring at them admiringly. Yes, even before arriving at the site, we’ve been really excited already!

Mingun

Mingun is a town which lies in Sagaing region, approximately one and half hour driving from Mandalay. There are two main tourist attractions we can visit. First is Pahtodawgyi Pagoda the unfinished “world tallest pagoda” which is guarded by Giant Mingun lion statues on the river bank. This pagoda supposed to be 490 feet heights, yet the death of the ruling king who initiated the building finally stopped the project up until now. It was started to be built in 1791 by king Bodawpaya and stopped at 49 meters. Visitors can climb up 174 steps to reach the top and be mesmerized by splendid panorama of Ayeyarwady river and Minwun hill. In 1839, an earthquake struck the city and made massive cracks on some parts. However, this cracks didn’t affect our pleasant because the pagoda looked incredible still.

 

A few walk away, we can find a gigantic bell which is claimed as second world largest bell. It weights 90 tons or in Burmese measurement equals to 55.555 viss (1 viss = 1,63 kg) which has something to do with Burmese astronomy and numerology understanding-you can see the number 55555 was sculpted on its body. You may hit the bells three times in order to gain luck and prosperity as local believes so.

Second one is Hsinbyume or Myatheindan or Lady of White Elephant pagoda. This was built in 1816 by king Bagyidaw to commemorate the death in childbirth of princess Hsinbyume, his consort. The pagoda was designed based on description of mythical Sulamani pagoda which lies on the top of Buddhist mount Meru. You can walk around to see its wavy surface detail or get inside to see some locals exercising their religious activity. From the top, you can also see Irrawady river and Pahtodawgy pagoda.

Inwa

Inwa or previously named Ratanapura (city of Gems) or kingdom of Ava used to be Burmese ancient imperial capital dated from 14th to 19th century. The capital was then moved to Amarapura in 1842 after being ruined by several major earthquake consecutively from year 1839. As we arrived at the site, we could see some ruins of fortification, stupas and monasteries abandoned on some spots.

There are some tourism objects we can see. Visit Namnyin or Inwa watch Tower as the only remains which witnesses the kingdom palace, or Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery or Me Nu Oak Kyaung Monastery, managed by king Bagyidaw’s principal wife, Me Nu. Also, don’t forget to put woooden Bagaya Kyaung monastery, a monastic college for royal family member, on your itinerary!

Amarapura

Or city of Immortality, derives from Pali language. This city became Burmese kingdom’s capital replacing Inwa and then became Buddhist reforms and learning central.  Here, you can visit U Bein teak bridge, world oldest and longest teak bridge. An interesting fact I found here. Mandalay palace that we can see at the city central actually was located in Amarapura before the capital moved to Mandalay by Bagyidaw’s successor, king Tharrawady. The kingdom then dismantled the palace and moved it by the elephants to the location as we could visit in Mandalay now. Meanwhile, some materials like the city wall was used for Mandalay city roads and railways’ construction, while the unused teak remained was used for U bein bridge! If you want to see remains of the palace after it was dismantled and moved, you could go to Bagaya monastery where you could still find parts of palace moat.

U Bein is the most favorite sunset point ever in Mandalay, both for locals and foreigner. Imagine, you and your canoe are floated on Taungthamman lake, witnessing a red round sunset which creates such wonderful silhouette of the bridge and people who is passing by on it!

Trace Back General Sudirman’s Birthplace in Purbalingga (Exploring Central Java, part 3)

Who does not know General Sudirman, one of the Indonesian war strategist who contributed to Indonesian independence. What is so special about this national hero, he remained persistent to set guerrilla attacks against allied forces when in  Indonesian pre-and post-independence, although he had to be stretchered anywhere because of his tuberculosis disease.

Soedirman was stretchered during his struggle. Picture taken from http://www.kesaintblanc.co.id/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/jendral-sudirman-ditandu.jpg

In the second Dutch military aggression 1948, Yogyakarta which became the capital of the Indonesian state was occupied by Dutch. Soedirman who was weak and ill forced himself to participate in the war against the allied forces. Stretchered from one to other mountains and forests for approximately seven months, he led the attacks and supported Indonesian army to fight. Although President Soekarno asked him to go back home and have rest, he refused and kept struggling til the last breath.

My next stop was Purbalingga. Passing through Jendral Sudirman statue, I was tickled to pay a visit to his birthplace in Bodaskarangjati village, around one hour riding a bike from the city. Monumen Tempat Lahir Jendral Soedirman (General Soedirman Birthplace monument) becomes the place where the replica of Soedirman parent’s house is built. This monument was built in 1976 and was inaugurated on March 21st 1977 as a tribute for his struggle.

Lets start the tour from its yard, we will be welcomed by one long golden relief  war which tells about Soedirman struggle during his life for Indonesia. On the left side of the relief wall, there stands young Soedirman statue when becoming a boyscout. On the right side we can see a mosque and a library which provides some historical books about Soedirman.

And the house is becoming the main site to visit. That is the replica of the house where Soedirman was born on January, 24th 1916. Getting inside the house, we can see some furniture replicas which were used at past. In one room, there is a swing replica used to cradle baby Soedirman, while in other room, there’s found one bed covered by nets. At the main room, there displays diorama of Soedirman history since he was born until his last struggle.

Died at a very young age, 34 years old, Soedirman inspires anyone to not give up on the situation and keep fighting for what is aspired. His name was perpetuated into the main streets of many cities in Indonesia

Kota Lama, the Little Netherland van Java (Exploring Central Java, part 2)

Welcome to Kota Lama (Old City), one of district in Semarang, Central Java’s capital which still preserves its Dutch colonialism heritage. From some sources I read, the history of Kota Lama began in 1678 when Amangkurat II, the ruling king of Mataram surrendered Semarang as a reward of VOC support to stop Trunojoyo rebellion. VOC then built a pentagonal fortress called Vijfhoek Fort which was said to be bigger than the fort in Batavia (François Valentijn on his book Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indiën/ Old and New East-India).

Kota Lama and Berok bridge in colonialism era. Photo taken from http://fariable.blogspot.com/2011/01/elemen-perancangan-kota-hamid-shirvani.html

One picture of old Kota Lama. Photo taken from http://wisatalternatif.blogspot.com/2012/05/kawasan-kota-lama-semarang.html

This fort was built as military centre and Dutch settlement (called De Europeesche Buurt) with one entrance gate at the north side and five watchtowers. Some canals were built at Semarang river and the urban development inside the fort was built in Netherlands architecture typical. Therefore this district is well known as Outstadt “Little Netherland”. After the Dutch settlement expansion, Kota Lama grew more crowded  and Vijfhoek fort was then refurbished to be a bigger fort to cover the whole area.

Berok Bridge, Used to be the southern gate of Kota Lama

The canals

This bigger fort has three major gates, Berok bridge which become the southern gate (called  de Zuideer Poort), the western gate (de Wester Poort) and the eastern gate (de Oost Poort). Three of which were connected by de Heerenstraat street (now is Letjend Soeprapto street, where Blenduk church lies).

Immanuel or Blenduk Church. Blenduk derives from local language which means dome (Considering to its roof shape)

At 1824 the fort was broken down for city development and train railway project. De Europeesche Buurt also expanded to be a small independent town. There built some commercial buildings, banks, hotels and shops. Nederlandsche Indische Kerk or Immanuel Church or Blenduk church was renovated and open air field was built beside the curch for military parade or music performance (Srigunting garden).

Sadly, after Indonesian independence, some assets like the building, and Dutch trade business in Kota Lama which were nationalized were not managed maximally. The economic and trade activities did not develop effectively which made some residents leaving the district. This area remains an old historical site with desolated building which walls were fragile and covered by the roots. Some spots look slum and are not well maintained.

One of slum corner which becomes motorcycle parking lot

PT Perkebunan XV

Some old building found

Nowadays, some old buildings are still operating and several activities might be found here in the morning til noon. Kepondang street is so busy with its chicken traditional market activities, Blenduk church is still used for religious worship, people are also found getting around PT Perkebunan XV building, two old buildings are revitalized to be Jiwasraya insurance building and Ikan Bakar Cianjur restaurant.